1988 Czechoslovak - New Zealand Mount Everest Southwest Face Expedition

Bonington's Hard Way in the central part of the south west face is considered to be one of the hardest Mt.

[1] Four Slovak climbers set off in a 1988 expedition to climb the Bonington route in alpine style, without supplementary oxygen and fixed ropes.

[7] The party leaves Camp II at 3 AM and begins the alpine style climb of Bonington's Hardway.

First radio call at 6 PM – the climbers have built a bivouac at 8100 m under the most difficult part of the climb – stone wall of V – VI UIAA degree.

The group is traversing the snow field to the south summit that can be visually confirmed from expedition doctor and climber Emil Hasík’s position at Camp II.

In a radio call at 9.30 PM, the climbers don't mention any health issues except exhaustion and Dušan's state is reported to be better.

[12] 4:00 PM radio call during which Jozef states he is with Peter and Jaro, but that they are also having problems with sight and orientation.

He reports they have good orientation in terrain and will make another radio call after reaching the South Col. A group of three American climbers and two sherpas are climbing to the South Col, which they estimate reaching around 5 PM, when they may be able to visually locate the descending Slovak group to provide help.

Diana Dailey, Dave Hambly, and Donald Goodman reach the South Col, where in spite of strong wind the visibility is good.

[16] Ivan Fiala, leader of the expedition, calls for the formation of a group of the strongest Sherpas, who would reach the South Col and attempt to look for Slovak climbers.

Southwest face of Mt. Everest
Southwest Face of Mt. Everest