[2] The company, successor to Sewell and Son, was established in 1871 and currently has premises on Neville Street.
There are four main gowns in the Durham scheme, corresponding to the four levels within the university: Undergraduates, Bachelors, Masters, and Doctors.
A knee-length gown gathered at the yoke with elbow-length square sleeves, but with the forearm seam opened about four inches from the bottom.
At some time (described as "recent" in 1932) an attempt was made to introduce a purple undergraduate gown, but this did not catch on.
"[9] A full-length gown, coming to somewhere between mid-calf and the ankle, with pointed sleeves hanging down almost as far and a black cord and button on the yoke.
The major difference between this and the BA gown worn at many other British universities is that the forearm seam is opened for 15–25 cm above the wrist, where it is held closed with a button and loop.
It is also used for the four-year integrated masters' courses, such as the MEng and the MSci, and for postgraduate diplomas and certificates.
[6] It has long, rectangular sleeves that are closed at the ends, with a crescent cut out of each sleeve-end, and a horizontal arm-slit just above the elbow.
Instead of this panel, the MMus gown has a row of lace running from the armholes to the base of the sleeves.
The shape in which the hood is made is governed only by tradition, but the materials and colours used are laid down in the university regulations.
St John's College has its own hood for graduates of its ministerial training course: of the Durham BSc pattern, in black stuff, the cowl faced inside with 2" blue silk.
This was later superseded by the current pattern, Oxford simple-shape, faced inside with 2" olive-green silk and lined with blue-green brocade.
The linings are generally the same colours as the sleeves and facings and the gowns: Gown and hoods are worn for graduations, but mortarboards are not part of the university's academic dress,[11] except for higher doctors in full dress, who wear soft square hats (known as John Knox caps [h3]) with a tump at the centre of the crown rather than mortarboards or Tudor bonnets.
The Vice-Chancellor & Warden and the Pro-Vice-Chancellors wear black silk gowns with identical lace trimming, but in silver rather than gold.