Alexander Huber

For a decade following the mid-1990s, Huber, often partnered with his brother Thomas, also came to be regarded as the strongest big wall free climber of his generation, with groundbreaking first ascents in Yosemite (El Nino in 1998, and Zodiac in 2003), the Karakoram (Latok II in 1997, and Eternal Flame in 2009), and in other notable big wall locations around the world.

His father Thomas, a climber who had ascended the north face of Les Droites, and his mother Maria, took the children mountaineering from a young age.

By 1986, aged 18, Huber and his brother Thomas climb Utopia (VIII+, 7a+) on the Wartsteinwand, and in 1988, they ascend Vom Winde Verweht (X−, 8a+) on Scharnstein in the Berchtesgaden Alps.

In 1997, Huber graduated with a Master's in Physics and received a post-graduate position as an assistant at the Institute for Theoretical Meteorology in the Ludwig Maximilian University of Munich.

[2] In 2008, when Adam Ondra made the first repeat of Huber's 1996 route Open Air [de] and graded it 9a+ (5.15a), that the climbing media began to realize that Huber was probably the first-ever person to climb at that grade, several years before Chris Sharma's groundbreaking ascent of Realization in 2001.

[12][13] During this period, Huber also made important big wall ascents in the Karakoram (Tsering Mosong on Latok II, 1997),[14] in Patagonia (Golden Eagle in 2006 and El Bastardo in 2008, on Fitz Roy),[15][16][17] in Antarctica (Sound of Silence on Ulvetanna Peak, 2008),[18][19] and on Baffin Island (Bavarian Direct on Mount Asgard, 2012).

[20] In 2009, Huber and his brother Thomas freed the famous high-altitude big wall route, Eternal Flame (5.13a), on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan.

Alexander and Thomas on the summit of Mount Asgard , 2012