Anchor (climbing)
Climbing anchors are also used for hoisting, holding static loads, or redirecting (also called deviating) a rope.
Examples of natural anchors include trees, boulders, lodged chockstones, horns, icicles, and protrusions.
An artificial anchor consists of man-made climbing gear placed in the rock.
Such gear includes spring-loaded camming devices, aluminum nuts used like chockstones, steel expansion bolts, and pitons.
A running belay anchor is used as a safeguard in the event of a fall while lead climbing.
A running belay is used as a faster alternative to pitch-climbing when the risk, consequences, and likelihood of a leader fall are deemed to be acceptable.
This configuration is a way to introduce redundancy and increase strength, typically for a belay anchor.
To ensure proper redundancy and effectiveness of a load-sharing anchor, some best practices are commonly observed.
This may mean using distinct boulders, crack systems, or objects for the placement location of each individual anchor.
This important feature reduces the potential for shock-loading the remaining individual anchors during a failure.
Non-extension can be accomplished by tying an appropriate knot in the interconnecting cordelette, or by using individual slings for equalization.
The principle of non-extension refers to the mitigation of shock-loading, rather than the elongation of materials under an increased load.
Climbers typically try to minimize this angle, because a greater V-angle will produce more force at each individual anchor.
Angles in excess of 120 degrees can create a hazardous situation that compromises the safety of the anchor, and should generally be avoided.
