André Noël (chef)

André Noël, born in Périgueux in 1726 and died in Berlin on May 4, 1801, was a French chef in the service of King Frederick II of Prussia.

He created famous dishes for the royal table, such as a "bombe de Sardanapale", but is also credited with making a pheasant pâté that La Mettrie is said to have enjoyed to the point of dying of indigestion.

[2] According to Friedrich Nicolai, the "bombe de Sardanapale"[note 7] was Frederick II's favorite dish which was frequently served at the royal table between 1772 and 1779.

[34][35][36] It is mentioned in a 137-verse poem by Frederick II, Epître au sieur Noël maître d'hôtel par l'Empereur de la Chine, published in Potsdam in 1772.

[42] Pierre René Auguis proposes a third version: according to him, the king, tasting what Carlo Denina called "infernal cuisine",[26] chose the ingredients, or rather demanded the incorporation of some, and Noël named the dish:[note 8] He imagined a combination of ingredients so violent as to outrage any other man: Noël protested against such an unhealthy dish, but obeyed repeated orders.

[50] He notes that Frederick II's cook prepared "admirable" soups, dishes "mostly in the French style and some of extraordinary strength", made with "all sorts of extremely delicate things".

[53][10] Pierre Lacam and Antoine Charabot credit André Noël with the invention of the pastry wheel: Wanting to make a frangipane tart without "banding it as usual",[note 9] he took "a scrap spur from the stables" and made "fluted strips to toast it on and around".

[58] Friedrich Wilhelm Barthold, one of the first to refer to La Mettrie's death as a "bombe de Sardanapale", adds, however, that only Casanova seems to have known that Noël was the cook of the dish.

[59]This is an anachronism on Casanova's part: It was in 1751, before Noël arrived in Potsdam, and not in 1764, that La Mettrie died of having eaten a pâté that Madeleine Ferrières wondered was from Périgueux,[60] Antoine Louis Paris asserted that it was made by "a cook who passed for very skilful" who had arrived from Paris,[61] Voltaire, that it was "sent from the North",[62] Frederick II, that it was "a whole pheasant pâté",[63] and Voltaire, again, that the ginger masked the presence of spoiled meat.

He confessed that one of the principal organs of a good cook, the nose, had brought him out of the underworld, and apostrophized the company with these words: The smell of pheasants and truffles draws me from Paradise.

[2][note 13]André Noël is one of the characters in the historical novel Potsdam und Sans-Souci (1848), written by Eduard Maria Oettinger.

Title page from Les Dons de Comus by François Marin (1739).
One of the first entries for André Noël in the Sanssouci Palace account book: in August 1755, reimbursement of his travel expenses from Dresden to Potsdam (line 21).
In this reconstruction by Adolph von Menzel , Casanova , La Mettrie and Voltaire dine with Frederick II.
Facsimile account book.
André Noël's emoluments in October 1755 (line 22): 485 thalers for "pastry" ( Mehlspeisen ).
Title page of Frederick II's Epître au sieur Noël (1772). [ 34 ]
The " bombe de Sardanapale " is a variant of cabbage roll , [ 38 ] a dish known throughout Europe, of which Allen Weiss counts over 77,000 variants, among which, according to this author, the most extravagant is Édouard Nignon 's " marroné lyonnaise ". [ 39 ] [ 40 ] [ 41 ]
Piedmont truffles by Michel-Jean Borch (it) (1780). Italian truffles were a favorite of Frederick II. [ 45 ] [ 46 ]
Entremets aux pommes de Carême (1842). [ 51 ]
La Mettrie by Lavater , in 1741, ten years before the disastrous pâté.
Illustration by Monsiau for La Gastronomie , by Joseph Berchoux : André Noël congratulated by the king.