Bandhani

Bandhani is a type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design.

[1] Today, most Bandhani making centers are situated in Gujarat,[2] Rajasthan,[1] Sindh, Punjab region[3] and in Tamil Nadu where it is known as Sungudi.

The earliest example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave at Ajanta.

The finest and most complicated patterns, whether for men's turbans or women's drapes called odhnis, were always dyed in kachcha colours.

[9]T H Hendley, writing in the 19th century, provided the organic sources of the colours used for Bandhani, Most of them like the red ( both pukka and kaccha), indigo were derived from flowers while yellow by mixing turmeric with buttermilk.

The bold patterns of Bandhani are very similar in design, motifs, and technique in the desert belt encompassing northern Kutch in Gujarat, Western Rajasthan, and Sindh even in Pakistan.

Pethapur, Mandavi, Bhuj, Anjar, Jetpur, Jamnagar, Rajkot, are some of the main towns in Gujarat, where Bandhani is created.

Dyeing process of Bandhani is carried out extensively in this city, as the water of this area is known to give a particular brightness to colours, specifically reds and maroons.

[10] The earliest example of the most pervasive type of Bandhani dots can be seen in the 6th century paintings depicting the life of Buddha found on the wall of Cave at Ajanta.

As per evidences in Historical Texts, the first Bandhani saree was worn at the time of Bana Bhatt's Harshacharita in a royal marriage.

Fine varieties of Bandhej are created in Pethapur, Mandvi, Bhuj, Anjar, Jamnagar, Jetpur, Porbandar, Rajkot, Udaipur, Jaipur, Ajmer, Bikaner, Churu etc.

The fabric used for making Bandhani sarees and dupattas are loosely woven silk called Georgette, or cotton known as Malmal.

Mulmul (fine muslin), handloom or silk cloth were the traditional choices but now chiffon, georgette and crepe are also being used as base fabrics for Bandhani.

A designer marks the layout of the pattern on the material using wooden blocks dipped in geru, a natural clay earth pigment mixed with water.

If the border has to be darker all the lighter parts are tied and covered with plastic foil and the edges are dyed with the required colors.