[1] Prior to the Western Han dynasty, only the Emperor and the aristocracy were permitted to wear the highest grade silk textiles.
[1] Techniques for applying adhesive and gold leaf to the surface of a silk foundation fabric existed before the Tang dynasty.
[1][note 1] Gold foil ornaments on silk clothing are found in unearthed artifacts of the Song dynasty; for example, the tomb of Huang Sheng, of the Southern Song dynasty, has silk blouses decorated with gold foil patterns.
[1][3] After manufacture, gold powder is mixed with a suitable binder before being applied to the surface of silk yarns[note 2] or fabrics.
[1] The alchemist Hu Gangzi, of the Eastern Han dynasty, is claimed to have invented the technique, as recorded in Chu jin Kuang Tu Lu.
[3] Clothing decorated with gold-powder-printed patterns (also known as painting with gold techniques[4]) was also found in the Southern dynasty tomb of Huang Sheng.
[5][6]: 39 Gold- and silver-gilded threads continued to be used in luxurious silk textiles in the Song, Liao, Jin dynasty and during the Mongol period.
[10] Due to the close trading relation between China and the Arabs, the Arabs learned the Chinese gold thread process who then regularly employing in their textile from the 10th to 14th century; Chinese gold thread technology were also adopted by Italian weavers according to British records dating in 1886.
[10] Gold leaf glue-work patterns used in ceremonial costumes of the courts and principalities were imported from China throughout the 19th and early 20th century.
Chinese communities in Southeast Asian countries used gold leaf to embellish their batik wedding skirts.