It was formed in 1993 as a collaboration between founder Rei Kawakubo, and perfume veteran Christian Astuguevieille.

The line released its first fragrance, Eau de Parfum, in 1994.

[2] In 2002, the brand signed a licensing deal with perfume giant Puig, but maintained its own distribution and production rights.

[1][3] Fragrances are continuously produced regardless of success, as CEO Adrian Joffe believes "sometimes perfumes, like artwork, are ahead of their time, so they might find success later".

As of 2015, the perfume business only made up around 5% of the brand's $200 million in total sales.