Eugénie hat

It first became popular in the mid 19th century and was named after the French empress Eugénie de Montijo, a fashion trendsetter whose taste was much admired and copied.

By 1932, the feather-trimmed small hat had become ubiquitous and was widely criticised by the press – especially in the United States – with some commentators predicting its rapid demise.

[5] Eugenie's fashion choices appeared in influential US publications such as Godey's Lady's Book and it seems likely images of the hat may have been circulated to an American audience.

[10] Another, from the same year, said: "Empress Eugenie hits country by storm – regardless" and proceeded to show a somewhat older parade of wearers, including market traders and a horse.

[14] In Australia, the hat was described as of "postage-stamp size" so that it revealed the back and sides of the hair and featured trims of bright feathers.

After describing something of the life of the last empress of France, its conclusion was that it would not: "So the wearing of Eugenie's hat the demure little bonnet with an audacious eye dip and ostrich plume ... may be a signal for almost anything in America.

[17] The Urbana Daily Courier declared the Eugénie hat "overdone" now that so many cheap copies were available in five and ten cent stores, although it noted that subtler, more square-crowned versions by French couturiers such as Jean Patou, with trims of osprey rather than ostrich, offered something different.

[18] In 1932, The Guardian reported on a trend for frocks based around designs by the French Impressionists, adding: "There is no reason why they should look any more ridiculous than the Empress Eugénie hats that every other woman was wearing a few months ago".

[19] In 1933, The Times reported that milliners were drawing on both the 18th century and the Second French Empire for inspiration, singling out Suzanne Talbot as showing styles similar to Empress Eugénie's riding hats and designs with trims turned up sharply on one side.

Thelma Todd wearing an Eugénie hat in the 1932 comedy Speak Easily
1854 fashion plate, with (left) an early version of the Eugénie hat, which was originally worn for horseriding or travel
1866 French fashion plate showing a hat with the upturned brim typical of the Eugénie style
The 'Eugénie influence' could be seen for the following decade in millinery – especially in the angling of hats. This 1937 model was worn by Gypsy Rose Lee .