Fin gras du Mézenc
Fin gras probably owes its unique character to the hay used, which comes from a very specific mountain flora that includes plants such as Meum ("cistre" in common usage), which perfumes the meat.
The determination of farmers and elected representatives to preserve this tradition led, in 1994, to the creation of a scope statement including specifications with the aim of obtaining an AOC, which became a reality in 2006.
From the 17th century onwards, the massif's farmland, often owned by nobles or religious communities, was farmed by local farmers or rented out to transhumant herds from Southern France.
It was probably for these reasons that the intensification of work around hay to compensate for the lack of grazing developed in the Mézenc, giving rise to the fin gras.
Moreover, in 1760, the massif's breeders asked the authorities to build roads to enable them to sell their fattened animals at the Fay-sur-Lignon and Saint-Agrève fairs, the main outlets for their production.
In addition to locally raised beef, farmers also bought Aubrac cattle from the Laguiole region to fatten in the Mézenc.
At the time, however, the term did not find its way into everyday farming parlance, where it was more commonly referred to as "bœuf de Pâques" (Easter beef).
This notion of terroir encompasses both natural conditions such as climate, soils, and the flora that grows there; along with human dimensions, through the know-how and traditions that have been developed in this region.
Finally, the AOC is the subject of a decree proposed by the INAO, which sets out all the specifications to be respected by the various players in the sector (production zone, practices, feed, breeds, etc.).
Initial tests were carried out between November 1995 and March 1996 on 150 animals, with the participation of INRA Theix and the two Regional Chambers of Agriculture.
What's more, a number of these terpenes are also found in the fat tissue of animals fed on this hay, linking the Mézenc terroir to the meat produced there.
The hay produced is easy to digest and has a good energy density of 0.7 forage units (FU) per kilogram of dry matter.
The Association pour le Développement de l'Institut des Viandes (ADIV), for example, has determined that in terms of tenderness, but above all taste and color, fin gras stands out from other meats taken as reference.
[12] Other taste tests have shown that it is the pot au feu that best displays the characteristics of fin gras meat, thanks to its gentle cooking and the absence of side dishes.
[14] The AOC Fin Gras du Mézenc production zone covers 28 communes in the Mézenc massif, 14 of them entirely (Les Vastres, Saint-Clément, La Rochette, Borée, Lachamp-Raphaël, Sagnes-et-Goudoulet, Sainte-Eulalie, Fay-sur-Lignon, Chaudeyrolles, Freycenet-la-Tour, Freycenet-la-Cuche, Moudeyres, Les Estables and Le Béage) and 14 partially (Mazet-Saint-Voy, Araules, Champclause, Montusclat, Saint-Front, Laussonne, Monastier-sur-Gazeille, Présailles, Issarlès, Le Lac-d'Issarlès, Cros-de-Géorand, Usclades-et-Rieutord, Saint-Andéol-de-Fourchades and Saint-Martial).
The abattoir area is slightly larger, and includes the abbatoirs of Privas, Aubenas, Lamastre, Annonay, Langogne, Romans, Valence, Yssingeaux, and Le Puy-en-Velay.
[15] In 2007, the average age of the animals was 33 months, with an estimated carcass weight of 379 kg, two-thirds of which were classified R on the EUROP grid.
The breeder's choice is ratified by the association's commission, which carries out checks on the selected animals to guarantee production quality.
These include a maximum stocking density of 1.4 UGB ("Unité de Gros Bétail")[17] per hectare of forage area, and at least 0.7 ha of mown or grazed land for each animal qualifying for the label.
Only cereals, soybean, rapeseed, sunflower or linseed meal, peas, faba beans, lupins and molasses are accepted as raw materials, with mineral and vitamin supplements.
[7] Introduced at the time of the mad cow crisis, the AOC Fin Gras du Mézenc is now highly traceable.
The DNA of the sample can be compared with that of a piece of meat at any time during the marketing process, thus guaranteeing perfect traceability from the farm to the butcher's stall.
Nowadays, nearly a hundred breeders in the Ardèche and Haute-Loire regions of France produce fin gras du Mézenc.
[19] Fin gras du Mézenc is not sold in supermarkets, where meat is sold under the name "bœuf de Pâques" (Easter beef), which does not comply with AOC specifications.The AOC Fin Gras du Mézenc is managed by an association in charge of monitoring and controlling production, as well as communication initiatives around this agricultural product.
At each visit, the technician rates the animals according to an internal grid that focuses on their muscular development, state of fattening, and general appearance.
These fairs, some of which already existed in the 18th century, such as the one in Saint-Agrève, are an opportunity for breeders to present their products, and for butchers and restaurateurs to taste and promote them to consumers.
It's an opportunity to see farmers and animals parade around, as well as to enjoy street performances, a local produce market, and themed walks.
[18] The festival is also the occasion for a gathering of the Cercle International des Sources de grands fleuves, which includes the Rhône in Switzerland, the Danube in Germany, and the Po in Italy.
This museum introduces visitors to the tradition of fin gras production and its links with the local terroir, showing the various stages in the farmer's work.
Each of the villages in the area has been presented with one of these markers by the Fin Gras du Mézenc association, which intends to further emphasize the link between the region and its signature product.
