The fabric was called ''Welsh cotton'', and despite its name, it was a coarse woolen material with a fluffed surface similar to flannel.
[3] Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or friezes, coarse woolen cloth that was the local textile product.
[7][8][9] Flannel became popular in the United States during the Civil War, when it was imported as an inexpensive, sturdy material for soldiers’ basic coats and undershirts.
It was during the years following this introduction that the American middle class adopted the flannel shirt as a workwear staple.
[10] At one time, Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used in the several localities, some being softer and finer than others.
Dyes determine the flannel's color; this was achieved by mixing white, blue, brown, and black wools in varying proportions.
[12] Originally, flannel was made of fine, short staple wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures of silk and cotton had become common.
Flannel plaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the grunge style of bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam.