Fulling

Fulling, also known as tucking or walking (Scots: waukin, hence often spelt waulking in Scottish English), is a step in woollen clothmaking which involves the cleansing of woven cloth (particularly wool) to eliminate (lanolin) oils, dirt, and other impurities, and to make it shrink by friction and pressure.

Felting refers more generally to the interlocking of loose wool fibers; they need not be spun and woven first.

[1] Stale urine, known as wash or lant, was a source of ammonium salts and assisted in cleansing and whitening the cloth and having its fibers intertwined.

The second function of fulling was to thicken cloth by matting the fibres together to give it strength and increase waterproofing (felting).

Originally, fulling was carried out by the pounding of the woollen cloth with a club, or the fuller's feet or hands.

In Roman times, fulling was conducted by slaves working the cloth while ankle deep in tubs of human urine.

In Scottish Gaelic tradition, this process was accompanied by waulking songs, which women sang to set the pace.

In both cases the machinery was operated by cams on the shaft of a waterwheel or on a tappet wheel, which lifted the hammer.

This was somewhat rounded on the side away from the hammer, so that the cloth gradually turned, ensuring that all parts of it were milled evenly.

Scotswomen walking (fulling) woollen cloth, singing a waulking song , 1772 (engraving made by Thomas Pennant on one of his tours).
Manual trampling, drawing after an Ancient Roman fresco in the Fullonica of Stephanus , Pompeii. A fullonica is a fullery and laundry shop.
Raising the nap, Roman fresco