Eventually becoming synonymous with Garland's public image, the character of Dorothy, and The Wizard of Oz, the dress is one of the most famous costumes in cinematic history.

In L. Frank Baum's 1900 children's novel The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, main character Dorothy Gale selects a checked blue-and-white gingham dress from her closet to wear to the Emerald City.

[6][7] As MGM's main costumier at the time, Dorothy's simple frock was a significant deviation from the glamorous gowns Adrian had previously designed for some of the era's most prolific actresses.

[10] Cukor re-styled Garland's dress and her natural hair into pigtails to better resemble a young girl from Kansas, which ultimately became her final appearance under director Victor Fleming.

[3] At the time, it was common for film studios to create multiple copies of a single costume or prop to avoid having to halt production should an item be lost or damaged.

[33][34] According to HuffPost senior editor Caroline Bologna, the fabric was considered a natural choice for Dorothy, a Kansas native, since the pattern was most popular throughout the Great Plains during the early 20th century.

[40] Instead, Garland's body double, Bobbie Koshay, was filmed from behind wearing the grey dress while opening the farmhouse door, revealing the colorful Munchkinland through the doorframe.

[1] The pinafore is usually worn over a high-necked cream-colored organdy blouse with puffed short sleeves,[7][49][37] embellished with blue ribbons,[50] and often incongruously paired with ruby slippers.

[52] The complete ensemble is understated compared to the outfits other characters wear in Oz,[3][53] which alludes to Dorothy's shy, innocent nature,[50][54] and humble farm upbringing.

[2] According to journalist and fashion editor Jess Cartner-Morley, Dorothy's dress and wholesome image embody the film's "no place like home" message.

[56] CNN writer Hilary Whiteman believes the mundaneness of Dorothy's costume was a deliberate choice made by MGM to emphasize the difference between the girl from Kansas and the fantastical world based on Baum's imagination.

[7] Similarly, Profiles in History founder Joseph Maddalena said in The Hollywood Reporter that the dress establishes Dorothy has traveled from "boring" Kansas to Oz.

[2] The Colour of Fashion (2022) author Caroline Young stated that female characters such as Dorothy are dressed in blue, a traditionally masculine color, to symbolize the act stepping outside of their comfort zones in pursuit of freedom or adventure.

[33] Courtney Gisriel of Today and Calin Van Paris of Allure also observed that Dorothy and other female characters wear blue to indicate that they will soon be embarking on a new, unfamiliar adventure.

[55] Praising Adrian's work, Booth Moore of Women's Wear Daily described two versions of the pinafore as "so beautifully stitched ... it’s easy to understand how the MGM costume giant also had a successful fashion label".

[24] Although Laverty acknowledged that the poor craftsmanship might have been intentional to match the character's farm girl image, the author believes Adrian's typical attention to detail more likely suffered from the film's tumultuous production.

[70] During the early 20th century, gingham was already common among rural residents of the Great Plains,[35][71] who appreciated its durability;[72] the trend only became more popular once audiences saw it worn by Kansas native Dorothy for the first time.

[74] The first composition Judy Garland doll debuted in Christmas 1939, with a blue gingham jumper and white organdy blouse designed by Mary Bauer that is a near-perfect replica of the original costume, with minor variations in the appearance of its collar and sleeves.

[75] Adrian later designed a gingham dress for actress Katharine Hepburn to wear in the film The Philadelphia Story (1941), which further established the pattern as a trend,[76] and became a trademark of his work throughout his career.

[77] Despite its common association with picnic tablecloths,[78] the fabric and pattern remain most closely affiliated with Dorothy's dress,[79][80] with University of Fashion contributor Antonia Sardone calling Adrian responsible for gingham's popularity.

[86] The Luminaries Magazine editor Alison Jane Reid hailed it as "a fashion masterpiece designed to evoke the idea of the wholesome, plucky, apple pie American girl".

[98] Echoing Sauma's sentiments that "Few costumes in movie history are as iconic", Christian Zilko of Indiewire said "the initial reveal of Garland’s Dorothy stepping out into the colorful Land of Oz is instantly recognizable both for its narrative significance and the technological breakthrough that [the dress] signified".

[128] A companion of Garland's, McCambridge donated the costume to the school, where she had been working as an artist-in-residence, to thank Hartke for helping her overcome her substance abuse,[129] hoping the gesture would inspire students.

[125][130] The university contacted the Smithsonian National Museum of American History, who authenticated the garment by comparing its unique characteristics to those of other verified Dorothy dresses, namely a hidden pocket, "Judy Garland" hand-written on a label, and repaired tears.

[130] In addition to generating renewed interest in the dress,[135] the media coverage surrounding the lawsuit furthered ongoing discussions about the ownership and conservation of historical garments.

[107][note 4] In December 2023, over a year after the auction was postponed, Gardephe dismissed the lawsuit,[138] ruling that Barbara Hartke "had failed to establish that she had legal standing to assert an ownership right" over the dress.