Gogo Graham

[1] Originally from Texas, she now is based in Brooklyn, NY, and has worked alongside prominent industry moguls such as Women's History Museum and RuPaul.

Her production process heavily involves the women for whom the clothing is being made; she consults with them on which features they want accentuated and then works to deliver a piece that best fits these criteria.

"[6] Graham has been vocal on the importance of self-representation by marginalized groups in the media, explaining in 2015 that “being portrayed by cis people is inherently exploitative no matter which way you spin it.

"[4] In addition to fashion design, Graham is also a sculptor, painter, and DJ, which she incorporates into her shows by providing the soundtracks and assisting with hair and makeup backstage.

[7] Mars Hobrecker and Leah James explain how transgender models "have become a hot topic in recent years thanks to Bruce Weber's all-trans campaign for Barneys and diverse runways at Eckhaus Latta, Chromat, and Hood by Air.

"[4] Graham believes financial compensation for the trans models involved in campaigns such as these will hinder mainstream fashion lines from exploiting the community in order to gain recognition and popularity.

[9] The visuals emulated as 'un-done' look which was done with "arms, fingers and ensembles, still wet from being painted crimson by Glossy, Kaidon Ho and Kelley McNutt only minutes before.

Held at Artists Space in Tribeca, the models walked the runway in torn, blood-drenched clothing which called attention to the high fatality rate and recurring violence experienced by the trans community.

[11] The nature of the show was made deliberately claustrophobic and uncomfortable to represent the vulnerability trans women feel when navigating through a potentially threatening society.

[13] Graham attempted to tackle stereotypes both literally and figuratively by deconstructing traditional menswear and repurposing it in order to reflect the message of her show.

She found materials in unconventional places such as thrift shops and hardware stores, and pulled together scraps of material- most notably tuna fish cans- in an attempt to distort and reconfigure the concept of a runway show.

"[14] Graham's AW16 show "moved more than a handful of audience members to tears-including Hari Nef, who noted the power of seeing something by and for trans women".

Addressing cultural issues such as feminine objectification, orientalism, and exoticism, her designs confront the heteronormative discourse that she believes is persistent in the fashion industry.