Small independent producers, often entrepreneurial general merchants, had largely supplanted the landlord proprietors in both Harris and Lewis as middlemen between weavers and textile wholesalers in the south of the UK.
[1] The role of general merchants as the middlemen in the sale of Harris Tweed was a vital factor in expanding the industry away from the patronage of the land-owning gentry and into the hands of island entrepreneurs.
The result of these two factors saw the increase in poor quality tweed made by inexperienced weavers from imported, mainland mill-spun yarn.
It became clear to the local general merchants that strong legal protection of the good name of Harris Tweed by a trade mark and an established standard definition had therefore become essential to the developing industry.
By December 1990, the final draft of the bill and been circulated, and by April 1991, the eleven members of the Harris Tweed Association unanimously approved the terms, subject to such alterations as the Parliament of the United Kingdom might think fit to make to it.
Readings of the bill took place in early 1991 and, after some procedural difficulties[9] with regard to European Law, received the Royal Assent in July 1993.
Groups of traders, characterised by profession or location, were recognised through their guild and the reputation that was associated with it, guaranteeing that goods or services meet a defined standard or possess a particular characteristic.
Following her death, The Harris Tweed Authority released the following statement: [14]In the late 1980’s Vivienne Westwood commenced use of a logo which, we consider, acknowledged her connections with and affection for our cherished cloth.
We hope and expect that collaboration will continue for many years to come.Based in the island capital of Stornoway the active office of the Harris Tweed Authority consists of a chief executive, secretary and two inspectors / stampers.
[16] They do this by safeguarding the standard and reputation of, promoting awareness in all parts of the world of, and disseminating information about, material falling within the definition of Harris Tweed and articles made from it.
Other roles and responsibilities include publicising, through advertisements or otherwise, the nature, origin and qualities of material falling within the definition of Harris Tweed and registering and maintaining in any part of the world intellectual property rights including patents, trade marks and other marks and designs, and to authorise the user of such intellectual property on such lawful terms and conditions as the Authority may think fit.
The inspectors also visit local weavers loom sheds to ensure their Harris tweed is being woven by hand at all times.
As of 2011[update] the Harris Tweed Authority has a comprehensive internet presence consisting of a dedicated information website and a range of social media pages including Facebook,[19][non-primary source needed] Twitter,[20][non-primary source needed] Instagram, Vimeo, KILTR[21] and Pinterest[22] which are used to interact with customers and disseminate news, information and images pertaining to Harris Tweed history, heritage and ongoing activities.
Great importance is placed on Harris Tweed to the fragile economy of the Outer Hebrides and its historic connection to the islands.
[23][24] Until the 1960s areas of concern were predominantly focused on: In 1958, three mainland mills interests formed a group called the 'Independent Harris Tweed Producers Ltd', they were: Argyll-shire Weaver's of Oban, A.&J.
Scottish Crofters Weavers Ltd. was associated with Robert Laidlaw Ltd Wool Mills of Leith who was also a traditional supplier of mainland yarn to Lewis small producers.
Also in 1958 the Independent Harris Tweed Producers Ltd announced a group emblem which was in fact a heraldic shield registered by Argyll-shire Weavers earlier.