Huipil
The style of traditional huipils generally indicates the ethnicity and community of the wearer as each has its own methods of creating the fabric and decorations.
Ceremonial huipils are suitable for weddings, burials, women of high rank and even to dress the statues of saints.
The huipil has been worn by indigenous Mesoamerican women of both high and low social rank since well before the Spanish invasion.
[1][2] It is most often seen in the Mexican states of Chiapas, Yucatán, Quintana Roo, Oaxaca, Tabasco, Campeche, Hidalgo, Michoacán (where it is called a huanengo), Veracruz and Morelos.
The design is dominated by an image of a double headed eagle, showing both indigenous and Spanish influence.
[5] Some huipils, such as those from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec show Asian influence due to cloth brought from the Philippines.
In the same region, the huipil also evolved into a long flowing and sometimes voluminous head covering which frames the face.
[3][9] In addition to designs embedded into the fabric, other decorative elements can include embroidery, ribbon, feathers, lace and more.
[9] Amuzgo women have achieved a certain level of fame, with weavers such as Florentina López de Jesús winning recognition at the 2001 UNESCO handcraft competition for Latin America and Caribbean.
[10][9] Traditional huipils generally identify the indigenous group and a community of the wearer as each has its own designs for both weaving and embroidering.
[1] In some cases, such as in San Juan Copala, Oaxaca, the extra length of the huipil is rolled up onto the waist when worn with a skirt.
In a number of indigenous communities, extravagant huipils made for a woman's wedding is then carefully put away and stored to be used later for her funeral.
For Mayan women in Guatemala, huipil designs on the front back and shoulders can identify which type of Maya and from what community.
[3] Chinanteca huipils are elaborate with the entire garment covered in woven and embroidered geometric designs in various colors, with the edges further decorated with ribbons.
[7][2][11] In Ojitlán, Oaxaca, Chinanteca women wear special huipils for their wedding, divided into three classes.
The third type, called “pájaros y palomas” (birds and doves) is the most economical of the three and can be found fairly easily in markets.
The first is a short velvet huipil which is heavily embroidered with floral motifs and a second one for special occasions, usually white, which frames the face then extends over the head covering the neck and shoulders.
[11] Amuzgo huipils have a sophisticated set of designs based on animals, plants, geometric shapes and more.
[7] In Pinotepa Nacional, decorative elements include animals, flowers, human figures, fretwork, moons, suns, fish and insects.
[2] In Ocotepec and Cuquila in Oaxaca, which are high in the Mixtec mountains, huipils are made of wool to combat the cold, with cotton ones usually worn for festive occasions.
