Island of Stroma

Although Stroma lies only a few miles off the Scottish coast, the savage weather and ferociously strong tides of the Pentland Firth meant that the island's inhabitants were very isolated, causing them to be largely self-sufficient, trading agricultural produce and fish with the mainlanders.

Its population fell gradually through the first half of the 20th century as inhabitants drifted away to seek opportunities elsewhere, as economic problems and Stroma's isolation made life on the island increasingly unsupportable.

The whirlpool, according to a Nordic tradition recorded in the Eddas, is caused by two gýgjar named Fenja and Menja turning the millstone Grótti, which grinds out the ocean's salt.

[10] The heavily indented coastline has a circumference of about 7 mi (11 km),[11] punctuated by numerous geos or inlets created by the waves eroding the sea cliffs along fault lines.

[9] The passage is said to have been used for smuggling; the islanders reportedly concealed illegal distilling from HM Customs and Excise by hiding the stills and alcohol in a cave within The Gloup, called "the Malt Barn", which was only accessible at low tide.

[23] The remains of an earth-and-stone fort are situated on the promontory of Bught o' Camm on the west coast of Stroma, near the north end of the island, though its origins are unknown.

The two men were trapped on the island due to bad weather but were persuaded to make peace by a mutual friend named Asmundi, who insisted that Sweyn and Harald should share the same bed.

The winter of 1937 illustrated the problems that the weather could pose; during January and February that year, the island was cut off for three weeks by violent gales which demolished houses along the seafront and washed boats 100 yards (90 m) inland.

An inquiry by the Canisbay Kirk in the 17th century rebuked them for visiting "Popish" chapels on the mainland, profaning the Lord's Day, being "ale sellers and drinkers" and playing football and dancing on the Sabbath.

[32][33] The islanders were instructed to attend church at Canisbay and a kirk session ordained in 1654 that they should be given free passage and that any Stroma person with a boat who stayed away should be fined.

According to the deathbed confession of one of the witnesses to the transaction, the laird, Sinclair of Freswick, obtained the "assent" of the deceased Kennedy holder of the wadset by placing a quill in the dead man's hand and moving it to make the corpse write its name on the document.

They grew a variety of crops such as oats, potatoes, hay and turnips, obtained water from wells and used horses to meet their transportation needs.

James Traill Calder wrote in his 1861 Sketch of the Civil and Traditional History of Caithness that "The finest cod in the north is to be got in the Pentland Firth ... Large and excellent lobsters are caught around the island [of Stroma].

The Statistical Account of Scotland noted that during a storm the sea level on the west of the island was more than 2 fathoms (3.7 m; 12 ft) higher than on the east side, and that the spray was thrown so high that it washed over the cliff tops "and falls in such profusion as to run in rills to the opposite shore".

In December 1862, a great storm broke over the island with such force that it swept right across the northern end of Stroma, leaving wreckage, rocks and seaweed on the top of the 100-foot-high cliffs and destroying the channels leading to the watermill.

Much of her cargo of slot machines, spark plugs, clothing, tobacco, watches and car parts was looted and concealed in haystacks, oatfields, lochs and caves.

"[43] The area still presents hazards to passing ships; in January 1993, the Danish coaster Bettina Danica ran aground off the southern end of Stroma.

One former inhabitant, Mrs. David Gunn, recalled in 1971 how her great-grandmother had managed to avoid the "excisemen" (customs officers) confiscating her illegally brewed alcohol: My great-granny, a woman Kirsty Banks frae Stroma – she wesna supposed to be very clever, but faith!

[46] Although they soon became focal elements of community life, there seems to have been some bad blood between the two congregations, perhaps due to a clash between the missionary zeal of local Baptists and the Calvinism of the Presbyterian Kirk.

Customers were rowed out to buy groceries, flour, animal feed, paraffin and clothes in exchange for lobsters, wet salted fish and eggs.

[40] Adding to the island's economic problems, the introduction of the 11-plus exam in 1944 meant that all children over the age of 12 had to leave Stroma to complete their education at the secondary school in Wick.

[58] As the population left, the local economy disintegrated; there were no longer enough able-bodied men to man the fishing boats, and the remaining facilities on the island were closed down for lack of custom.

So he told me what kind of money, and there and then, the lawyer wrote that I, James Simpson, offered to buy the island of Stroma at a certain figure, and I signed my name at the end of it."

"[62] Although the head of the family, Andrew Manson, called the island "a paradise in summer" and a place where he was "free of outside distractions and watching my sons growing from boyhood to manhood – teaching them to live like men, to be dependent on no one," it was a bleak life for the women, who had applied for a council house at Scrabster, near Thurso.

In some, the furniture is still laid out as if only recently abandoned: iron bedsteads with mattresses, tables, armchairs, cupboards full of boots and bottles, everything arranged with the same care and compaction as it would be on a boat.

[64]Inside some of the houses, Bathurst writes, everyday objects still remain where they were left decades ago; "the bed and the limed matchboard ceiling are intact, untouched even by the damp.

The island's owner ran occasional boat trips there on weekends for visitors, including Prince Charles, who painted watercolours of the abandoned houses.

[76] It was replaced in 1896, possibly on the same site, by a new lighthouse built to a design by David Stevenson as part of a major programme of construction works around northern Scotland.

An electric lamp with a maximum power of 1.1 million cp[76] was installed in 1972, utilising a sealed beam optic mounted on a gearless revolving pedestal.

In 1762 Bishop of Ross and Caithness Robert Forbes recorded in his journal that Murdoch Kennedy ... played such wretched tricks on the Body of his Father, for the Diversion of Strangers, as in time broke it to pieces, and the Head was the part that fell first off.

Picture of a puffin standing on the edge of a lichen-covered cliff
An Atlantic puffin on Stroma
View looking north showing grass fields in the foreground, with ruined buildings visible in the middle distance and sea and islands visible on the horizon
Panoramic view of the north of Stroma, with Orkney in the distance. Mains Farm, the houses of Nethertown and the top of the lighthouse can be seen.
View of a rocky pinnacle standing in the sea, with many seabirds on and around it
The top of this isolated rock stack is occupied by the scanty remains of Castle Mestag, thought to have been built by the Norse
View of a low-lying island under grey skies, with rough water and cresting waves in the foreground
View of Stroma as seen from the Pentland Firth in choppy weather. Bad weather meant that the island was often cut off by sea.
View of ruined houses and a ruined building surrounded by a stone wall, located on a green slope leading down to a rocky shoreline
The 17th-century Kennedy mausoleum and graveyard on the island's south-eastern tip
View of part of a wrecked ship, wedged on its side in a gap between cliff faces
A casualty of the Pentland Firth: the stern of the Bettina Danica , wrecked on Stroma in 1993
View of a pier leading to a sloping shingle beach on which numerous boats are standing. Groups of people are visible at the foot of the pier and on a track which leads up to a building at the top of the slope.
The pier and beach at Nethertown, Stroma, in July 1904
Picture of a small harbour sheltering a red and white fishing boat and a white yacht, with the mainland coast visible in the distance behind
The harbour at Stroma, built in the 1950s in a failed attempt to prevent the final collapse of the island's population
View of ruined houses on a sloping green field, with sheep grazing in the background
Ruined houses on Stroma
View of the interior of an abandoned house with peeling walls and a floor that is buried under a deep layer of soil
Interior of an abandoned house on Stroma
View of a painted wooden box bed, without a mattress, built into a wall of a house
An inset box bed in one of Stroma's abandoned houses
View of Stroma's church, a large stone building with a small tower, with a wrecked red telephone box in the foreground. Next to it is a telephone pole with no wires on it.
The island's disused church and phone box