It is still to this day an important feature of Russian dance ensembles and folk culture and inspired the Kokoshnik style of architecture.
However, the earliest head-dress pieces of similar type (rigid cylindrical hat which completely covered the hair) were found in the 10th- to 12th-century burials in Veliky Novgorod.
During the revival of Russian national culture in the early 19th century, diadem-shaped tiaras became part of the official court dress for royalty and for ladies-in-waiting.
The style had previously appeared in the 1893 wedding headdress of Mary of Teck, the future Queen consort of the United Kingdom.
Queen Marie of Romania wore a Cartier tiara created to resemble the Russian kokoshnik for her 1924 portrait painted by Philip de László.