Those reaching the summit were René Desmaison, Paul Keller, Robert Paragot and Gyalzen Mitchung Sherpa (April 27) and Lionel Terray, André Bertraud, Jean Bouvier, Pierre Leroux, Yves Pollet-Villard, Jean Ravier and Wangdi Sherpa (April 28).

[5] In 2004, after a failed attempt the previous year, a Russian team led by Alexander Odintsov succeeded in climbing the direct north face route through the headwall.

However some in the climbing community were upset to learn that the Russians left a good deal of equipment on the wall, provoking a debate over what constitutes appropriate modern style on such a route.

On October 12th 2023, three American climbers, Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell reached the summit.

Their climb was done with no supplemental oxygen, no ropes fixed in advance, and no porters beyond base camp, using only what they could carry on their backs.