His independent London boutiques created a strong international following among popular music performers and celebrities from the 1960s to the 1990s, including Keith Richards, Bob Dylan, Rod Stewart, Jack Nicholson, David Bailey, Jonathan Ross, The Clash, Shakin‘ Stevens, Madness, George Michael, Iggy Pop, Tom Waits, Fun Lovin Criminals, Oasis and The Pretenders.
appeared on record sleeves (such as Stewart's 1970 album Gasoline Alley and Madness's 1979 single "One Step Beyond"), in promo videos (George Michael's 1987 "Faith"), films (Jim Jarmusch's 1986 Down by Law and 1988 Mystery Train) and as stage costumes (David Bowie's 1988 Glass Spider tour).
[2] The magazine's founder Nick Logan wrote in 2012: "Lloyd Johnson is up there with the likes of Paul Smith and Joseph Ettedgui in making London what it is today...he is one of the crucial figures in the development of British style.
Silver-painted and accessed via an oval doorway into which a giant silver plug was fitted at the end of the day's trading, HMK retailed casual leather jackets and velvet jeans by the French NewMan brand.
Over the next five years the Cockell & Johnson dandy peacock look – three-piece tailored suits, long herringbone coats, penny-round collared repeat-print shirts and print jackets – was taken up by the pop stars of the day, including Stewart (who wore red velvet C&J jeans and a cream and dark brown leather jacket designed by Johnson and Colin Bennett on the inner gatefold of Gasoline Alley) and his colleague in the Jeff Beck Group and The Faces' Ronnie Wood.
A commission to supply designs to Franc Roddam's film Quadrophenia (from The Who's concept album of the same name) led to re-entry into the own-label market with a series of 1960s-style clothing collections which revisited Johnson's mod past.
The Rock & Roll Suicide collection used Japanese imagery and prints effectively; performers who favoured this clothing included singer Siouxsie (on the cover of The Face[11]), The Clash frontman Joe Strummer (who wore a 'Kanji' shirt for a 1982 concert in Tokyo) and Billy Idol (on the sleeve of his single "Hot in the City").
George Michael made his Johnson's BSA "Rockers Revenge" leather jacket and silver-tipped boots key elements of the visual identity portrayed on the cover of his Faith album, the music video for the spin-off single and accompanying world tour.
Inspired by exposure to the West Coast lounge scene, in the early 1990s Johnson produced clothing for the British easy-listening crowd, including three-button Italian suits in sharkskin and Regency-collared outfits in crushed velvet, matched with giant 'Teddy bear' fake fur coats (as worn by Robbie Williams in the promo for Take That's 1995 single "Back For Good").
After parting company with Boutwood, Johnson maintained the Chelsea and Kensington stores and opened a new shop at 293 Portobello Road in west London's Notting Hill; the premises had housed the militaria boutique I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet in the 1960s.
For the first half of the 2000s Johnson and his wife Jill licensed designs to such global brands as BC Ethic,[12] and in recent years his extensive knowledge of the Ivy League style has been recognised by such online fora as Film Noir Buff.