Movado Ermeto watch

[1] The trademark Ermeto[2] derives from the Greek ερμητικός,[3] transliterated as ermētikós, which means "hermetic, sealed", in reference to the characterictics of the case design, emphasizing the watch protection against dust, moisture and shocks, although it was not hermetic in the strict sense of the term.

Unlike many of its Swiss competitors, Movado was at that time a manufacture d'horlogerie, making its own in-house movements,[5][6] and so the Ermeto range was fitted with the company's different calibres according to the size of the case and complications added.

Although the case rectangular shape remained unchanged during its lifetime, the style of dials and hands evolved with times and, if original to the watch, help to date a certain piece.

Many incorporated a folding hinged strut in the back of the watch itself, so when the covers were opened, allowed the timepiece to be placed on a desk or bedside table, acting as a travel clock.

[8] The product's success made that firms such as Cartier, Hermès, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, etc.

Among the historical figures known to have owned an Ermeto were Pope Pius XI, King Albert I of Belgium and his consort the Queen Elizabeth, King Edward VIII,[9] Clara Bow,[10] Andy Warhol, who owned at least six different models,[11] and Prince Charles, whose watch was stolen from St. James Palace in 1994 and later returned to him.

Initially, Huguenin Frères had developed it as a pendant watch but, after some modifications, Movado launched it in 1926 as the timepiece we know today.

Translated from the 1929 ad in Spanish at right.The early success of the timepiece forced Hugenin Frères and Movado to make a joint warning against copies in 1929, claiming the following: Houses Hugenin Frères & Co. Fabrique Niel and Fabriques Movado, holders of the patents and brand ERMETO warn all third parties against attempts to imitate the Ermeto watch.

Translated from the French.Despite this, several companies produced imitations of the watch, more than forty different models are known to have been made, but they couldn't repeat the Ermeto's success[1] nor replicate the patented rack-winding system.

A 1928 Ermeto chronometer , silver case covered in lizard skin. "Normal" size with automatic winding system called "Non-Stop" by Movado. Watch Museum of Le Locle (Switzerland).
1929 ad in French showing the watches of the then King of Belgium and Pope Pius XI. Below the woman's photo the footnote reads: "The "Normal" Ermeto in automatic winding for Gentlemen and for Ladies", promoting it as a unisex model.
A 1929 advertisement in Spanish with a diagram at right showing a section of the piece: E) Inner winding. C) Air chamber. A) Watch (solid piece). F) Inner glass. B) Hard cover. D) Suspension point. G) Strut. D) 1 Suspension point.
Crown detail of a 1928 "Normal" size Ermeto. The automatic version usually feature a crown engraved with three tiny oak leaves and a flower in the centre. The non automatic, a plain, undecorated crown.
A 1929 advertisement in Spanish, heading telling: The modern watch, Automatic or standard winding, The watch is not a fragile object anymore.
Hugenin Frères and Movado 1929 joint warning in French.