Mount Fairweather[a] (or Tsalxaan in the Tlingit language[4]) is a mountain located 20 km (12 mi) east of the Pacific Ocean on the Canada–United States border.

)[citation needed] The colonial name for the mountain came from Captain James Cook,[5] on May 3, 1778 apparently for the unusually good weather encountered at the time.

Like many peaks in the St. Elias Mountains, Mount Fairweather has great vertical relief due to its dramatic rise from Glacier Bay.

However, due to poor weather in the area, this effect is usually obscured with the clouds which often hides the summit from view.

From base camp in a spot they called Paradise Valley, they decided to attempt the mountain from the south rather than via the west ridge.

Due to deep snow, they realized that skis and snowshoes would be of great help so Carpe and Moore made the 80 km (50 mi) round trip to fetch them from Lituya Bay.

On May 25, they established high camp at 2,740 m (8,990 ft) after making significant progress up a ridge on a rare day of good weather.

Ladd and Taylor volunteered to descend due to dwindling supplies at high camp with the hope that Carpe and Moore would be able to make another attempt in good weather.