Ortler (German pronunciation: [ˈɔrtlɐ]; Italian: Ortles [ˈɔrtles]) is, at 3,905 m (12,812 ft) above sea level, the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps outside the Bernina Range.
The massive mountain is capped by a glacier on the northwest flank and has a long north ridge that ends at the village of Gomagoi and separates the valleys of Trafoi and Sulden.
From nearby mountains in the northeast the impressive lineup of Königspitze, Zebru and Ortler is known as “das Dreigestirn” (the three heavenly bodies).
The first five attempts failed and Gebhard was ready to give up, when Pichler responded to the prize money offered for reaching the peak.
The first time the Ortler was climbed via the easiest and currently normal route, the North ("Tabaretta") ridge, was more recently, in July 1865, as the approach is rather lengthy.
The North face was soloed first in 1963 by Dieter Drescher who had also added some first winter ascents to his name, including a traverse of Königspitze, Monte Zebrù, and Ortler in February 1975.
On August 31, 1981, Reinhard Patscheider [de] achieved the amazing feat of climbing the north faces of Königspitze, Zebrù and Ortler all in one day.