Justacorps

[4] Elaborated forms featuring rich embroidery and embellishments were influenced by Indo-Persian and Turkish garments, which cultures influential Europeans were increasingly in contact with, through travel, trade, and diplomatic missions.

[5][6] East European garments of similar cut became fashionable around the same time as the justacorp arrived in Western Europe, and its construction and decoration were also influenced by "oriental" modes.

[9][10] While adaptable in general use, and a mainstay of the military wardrobe, from the mid-17th century developments in weaponry meant the casaque was now proving too cumbersome as soldiers' clothing, its bulk impeding easy access to their weapons.

[2][11] The justaucorps, according to historian Susan Mokhberi, was influenced by a similar Persian coat,[4][6] which also featured floral embroidery and tight-fitting body and sleeves.

[13][14] A garment that came into fashion in Poland and Hungary at the same time was the żupan or dolman with its distinctive turn-back cuffs and decorative gold braid.

[7][18] These Central European and Indian long coats probably influenced the design of the justacorps later favored by Louis XIV of France[19] and King Charles due to their exotic appearance, comfort and practicality.

[7] The spread of the justacorps throughout the French army was accelerated by Louis XIV's military reforms which included standardised uniforms for the first time.

[21] Louis instituted an intricate and regulated system of ceremonial and court dress, under which his courtiers vied with one another in the splendour of their attire, and the approval of king.

[12] Despite sumptuary laws aimed at restricting the bourgeois wear of prestige fabrics and garments, growing wealth in the mercantile sector gave non-aristocrats the means to clothe themselves luxuriously.

Some styles of the justacorps remained fitted throughout the bodice, though other versions feature a more accentuated, flared skirt through the addition of gores and pleats.

Justacorps often were accented with contrasting fabrics of different colours and patterns, displayed through turned back cuffs or a decorative sash worn across the shoulders.

The garment's opening remained at center front, however the buttons only extended to the waist area, allowing extra room for the extension of a fuller skirt.