San Martín Tilcajete

[1] It is part of the Ocotlán District in the south of the Valles Centrales Region The municipality is small and rural with all but seven of its 1,631 residents living in the town (as of the 2005 Mexican Census[update]).

The Zapotec language was lost three generations ago, but the municipal government falls under the legal category of “traditional uses and customs” based on ancient community norms.

[3] The community is best known for its production of “alebrijes,” which are wood carvings of real or fantastic creatures painted in bright colors and intricate patterns.

The current name is derived from the Nahuatl "Tilcaxitl" which means either “black earth depression or bowl” or “mountain of cochineal ink.” The first would refer to a dark fresh water spring, which today is located between Calle de Cajete and Avenida Progreso.

[1] Another possible origin for the name comes from “tilmas” which is a traditional type of apron worn by workmen to protect clothes underneath and to carry things.

Sometime around the beginning of the Common Era, these villages began to coalesce into larger political units, via alliances or domination of neighbors.

[8] After being integrated into the Monte Albán domination, nearby Cerro Tilcajete was established around 100 BCE as a secondary administrative center for the region.

It was reoccupied during Monte Albán IIIb-IV, but this reoccupation was limited to the site’s two civic-ceremonial and the terraces north and east, with the rest untouched.

[15] Despite the lack of cultural monuments aside from the parish church, the town is rich in ceremonial and festival traditions, most revolving around the Catholic faith and the promotion of crafts.

[19] The event not only promote the alebrijes made in the town, it also invites artisans from nearby San Antonio Castillo Velasco and Ocotlán de Morelos.

[19] On 11 November is celebrated the “Fiesta Grande” which lasts for eight days honoring the town’s patron saint of Martin of Tours.

The Fiesta Grande begins with a banquet with flowers and a procession in which one of the organizers slaughters a cow, goats and pigs to prepare for the feast.

[1] San Martín Tilcajete is known for its wood carvings of real and fantastic animals painted with bright colors and designs.

[20] This is part of Oaxaca’s tradition of being one of the leading producer folk and modern art, which is displayed in shops and galleries all over the world.

[4] Workshops here have had their pieces sold in shops in the city of Oaxaca, other parts of Mexico and internationally, but prices are substantially lower in the town itself.

[14] The brightly painted wooden figures now carry the name “alebrije” but they are a mixture of two craft traditions, one ancient and one more recent.

According to the Linares family, Pedro fell seriously ill in the 1930s and during his fever-induced hallucinations, envisioned fantastic creatures as well as the name “alebrije.”[14][22] He was a Mixe from Central Valleys area of Oaxaca, but he created and established the creation of alebrijes using cardboard and wood in Mexico City.

[19] In San Martin Tilcajete, the tradition of wood carving was strong as well, but it was also rivaled by other crafts such as embroidered shirts, blouses and dresses as late as the 1960s to 1980s.

[3] In the 1980s, the popularity of alebrijes, along with other Oaxacan crafts skyrocketed and spurred the creation of workshops in Tilcajete, allowing for the development of sales and talent.

During this time, the economy of the town shifted to craft making and away from agriculture and sending family members to other places to work.

[16] More imaginative artists have branched out to plants such as purple palm trees and yellow cacti, as well as jewelry boxes, picture frames and other common use products, painted in alebrije style.

[21] While figures from Tilcajete and other towns have been sent to all parts of the Mexican Republic, the United States and Europe,[16] they can still be hard to find outside of Oaxaca and, if found, quite expensive.

The figures were discovered by international tourists in the 1990s, but since then the popularity has grown sufficiently to allow the town of Tilcajete to build a reputation along with a number of its residents.

Efrain began carving at a very young age and at only 13, was featured in an exhibit in Santa Fe, N.M.[4] The best pieces produced by this family are most often bought by foreigners.

[20] Like other carvers, Angeles began carving at a young age, taught by his family and elders from Tilcajete and other villages.

The figures also more closely reflect Zapotec culture and tradition, painting designs derived from sources such as the friezes of the Mitla archeological site and ancient pictographic symbols for phenomena such as waves, mountains and fertility.

The municipality borders the municipalities of San Bartolo Coyotepec, Santa Catarina Quiaré, Santo Tomás Jalieza, Ocotlán de Morelos, San Juan Chilateca and Santa Ana Zegache and covers an area of 26.79 square kilometres (10.34 sq mi).

[1] The municipality contains deposits of gold, silver, iron, coal, lead, copper, zinc, antinomy, titanium, asbestos and various minerals.

Most migrant workers are male but unmarried women also go, mostly to Mexico City to work as maids, returning to the town for marriage.

The site covers 280 square kilometres (110 sq mi) and includes the modern municipalities of San Martín Tilcajete, Santo Tomás Jalieza, Santa Ana Zegache and Ocotlán.

Facade of the parish of San Martin
Carnival mask on display at the Museum Estatal de Artes Populares
Abad Xuana Luis working on a carving
Large alebrije in front of a shop in Tilcajete
Selling alebrijes in Tilcajete
Young woman sanding an alebrije
Rabbit figure by Jacobo Angeles at the Museum Estatal de Arte Popular in San Bartolo Coyotepec .
Sign for Tilcajete on Highway 175
Municipal palace