Surfing in the United States is a popular hobby in coastal areas, and more recently due to the invention of wave pools, inland regions of the country.
[2][8] Throughout the Pacific, wave-riding existed in various forms, however only in Hawaii did it embed itself within the social, political and religious fabric of society.
[8] The boards in Hawaii were longer and heavier than other Polynesian colonies, and only there were references to sitting, kneeling and standing on specialised surfboards recorded dating back to AD 500.
[8] By 1778 ancient Hawaiians were using three types of timber to make surfboards – Acacia koa, Artocarpus altilis, and Erythrina sandwicensis.
[8] Hawaiian balsa was the post popular material to craft surfboards with due to its light weight and superior buoyancy.
[8] Surfing in ancient Hawaii transcended class divisions, with men, women and children all riding waves for pleasure.
[10][11] Surfing on the East Coast of the United States was pioneered in 1909 by Burke Haywood Bridgers in Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina.
[12] Duke Kahanamoku, the father of modern surfing, introduced the sport to New Yorkers in 1912 while en route from Honolulu to the Stockholm Olympic Games at Rockaway Beach.
[6][14] The organisation focused on the outgrowth of Pacific-area tourism promotion activities, and sponsored the Mid-Pacific Carnival in 1913 at Waikiki, Honolulu.
[14] As surfing became more popular, especially amongst young people, it became more than a recreational hobby and affected music, fashion, literature, film and art and jargon.
[22] Many surfers originally came from a lower economic class and resented well-off vacationers who visited their towns to surf recreationally.
[4] The United States has the largest share of the surfing industry, accounting for 49% of total sales on average each year.
[4] Locations with exceptional waves bring in large levels of activity form surfers, with Trestles surf break in San Diego, CA having an estimated economic value of $24 million.
[33][35] The boards have a round-pin tail allowing surfers to dig into large waves in order to carry out high-speed turns.
[36] Greg Noll was credited with surfing the largest wave to date on December 4, 1969, at Makaha, estimated to be 9.14 meters (30 ft) high.