Turnshoe

[1] The cross-section image shows how the seams are on the inside; the turnshoe shown has a topband (dark leather edge strip), a heel stiffener, and a rand (a thin strip sewn into the seam between the sole and the upper).

Sheepskin and goatskin were briefly popular in Scandinavia, and to a lesser extent in England in the 12th and 13th century.

Modern turnshoes are usually made with waxed nylon, often in the form of synthetic sinew, which is harder-wearing but stronger than the leather, meaning it may tend to pull through during stitching.

The dry leather was stuffed with waterproofing agents (like cooking oil, tallow, lard, or beeswax), which darkened it.

[1] Closings includes various forms of lacing and rolled leather toggles, and vary by time period.