Anderl Heckmair

Andreas "Anderl" Heckmair (12 October 1906 – 1 February 2005) was a German mountain climber and guide who led the first successful ascent of the Eiger north face in July 1938.

[1][2] The most experienced mountaineer in a group consisting of himself, Ludwig Vörg, Heinrich Harrer and Fritz Kasparek, Heckmair led the most difficult pitches in the ascent, aided by the extensive kit (including new 12-point crampons) that he and Vörg had purchased using sponsors' money.

He ran into several problems on the North Face of the Eiger, including a slip while climbing out of the exit cracks; ,Ludwig Vörg caught him by his feet, piercing his hand on Heckmair's crampons as he did so.

The reception included an audience with Adolf Hitler (whom Heckmair had met before after working with Leni Riefenstahl).

In 1934, he took part as a reserve of the DSV team (Franz Fischer, Gustav "Gustl" Müller, Matthias Wörndle) in the Trofeo Mezzalama ski mountaineering competition.