Armand Charlet

All those who have been with him in the mountains have been struck by his impressive, almost tragic face, his intelligence and culture, and above all by his speed and poise when climbing,[2] and Wilfrid Noyce stated that "It was amusing to note how Armand's pre-eminence was recognized by the other guides and hut-keepers.

[2] He made another unsuccessful attempt in 1934 with Robert Greloz, a guide from Chamonix,[2] reaching 11,800 ft on the face and, according to Gaston Rébuffat, "[causing] quite a stir at the time".

[4][7] He taught at ENSA, the French national school of ski and alpinism, for many years and had a great influence on several generations of high-mountain guides.

According to Engel:[2] Specialists could recognize or discover every detail of the routes and study the climbing technique of the actors, a fascinating process when one could watch Armand Charlet hauling himself over a narrow ledge.

[2]He was the central character in À l'assaut des aiguilles du Diable (Marcel Ichac, 1942), a mountain film that Engel rates as "little short of a masterpiece".