Bäckadräkten
Clue mentioned that Bäckadräkten aims to encourage broader participation in Swedish folk traditions by offering an outfit that is not limited to a specific gender or geographic region.
Their partnership with the Textile Museum of Borås grew into a six-month design and production process which involved input from non-binary Swedes and assistance from other clothing and accessory specialists.
The design release attracted international press attention and generated discussions on social media, much of the latter about the relationship between folk arts and gender.
[1] It is based on older Swedish folk costumes from various regions across the country,[2] particularly the hometowns of the co-designers: artist and musician Fredy Clue from Gothenburg and illustrator and textile designer Ida Björs from Järvsö.
[7] The top half of the costume is similarly defined by a combination of traditionally male and female dress: the livstycke, which appears like a feminine bodice in the front, but a masculine vest in the back.
[8][9] The livstycke's fabric, produced by Ljusdal textile artist Christina Wreiding,[6][8] is traditionally used by men in that region for wedding vests, but coincidentally bears the colors of the modern transgender flag: white, pink, and light blue.
[3] The wide-sleeved shirt follows a traditional design of bringing the wide fabric into snug cuffs and collar with thin pleats called nuggor.
[2][3] The tongue of the shoe features a heart print to match the shape of the brooch, which is engraved with the transgender symbol, and surrounded by dangling leaves patterned with flowing water.
In the early 20th century era of romantic nationalism, experts issued strict guidelines to formalize the preexisting designs into costumes representing their respective countries, as well as regions within them.
[4] Since the early 2010s, social media channels, radio, and newspapers across Norway, Finland, and Sweden have been hosting discussions about possible unisex folk costume design concepts.
[9][3] Clue was bothered by the fact that all traditional costumes were assigned either a male or female gender, and brought this up with a friend at the 2018 Bingsjöstämman [sv] folk festival.
[11] Acknowledging the potential for controversy, Clue told the BBC: "I got into folk culture a little bit sideways – maybe that helped me to be less afraid to break the rules.
[10] The two worked together on the Bäckadräkten project as co-designers,[3] with Clue inspired to explore the non-binary identity and Björs bringing a background in challenging established standards in Swedish folk costumery.
[14] According to journalist Anne Brügge, the exhibit contrasted historic unisex work clothes against modern gendered folk costumes designed for special events.
[13] Clue has encouraged Swedes to develop variations on the original pattern to fit individual users' character or hometown,[8][4] saying: "The real work continues with us learning to listen to oneself and others.
"[8] A year after that quote was published, one of the Bäckadräkten project focus group members presented Clue with a cardigan for the costume at the pride festival in Hudiksvall.
[8] The Swedish Institute announced the release on the official Facebook page of Sweden,[16] and the Hälsingland Heritage Association included a photo of Clue wearing Bäckadräkten on the back cover of the 2022 edition of their annual publication, Hälsingerunor.
[18] Culture critic and Borås Tidning journalist Agnes Brusk Jahn praised what she saw as the potential for non-binary Swedes to participate more in folk traditions.
[14] Independent Online lifestyle writer Thobile Mazibuko described the costume as an innovative development with the potential for contributing to a more respectful and curious world.
