44:Muztagh Tower, 45:Diran, 46:Apsarasas Kangri I, 47:Rimo III, 48:Gasherbrum V Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan.
[3] In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record[1] which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and Somervell reached 8,200 m (26,903 ft) on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.
[4] Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier.
On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.
[1] On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.