Kurt Diemberger (born 16 March 1932) is an Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.

He is the only living person who has made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres: of Broad Peak in 1957 and of Dhaulagiri in 1960.

[3] This attempt to climb Chogolisa was illegal and subsequently Diemberger was banned from entering Pakistan for an extended period of time.

Tullis died later that night, possibly from high altitude cerebral edema, and only one other climber, Austrian Willi Bauer, survived the descent with Diemberger.

[2] Diemberger is still active in the mountaineering world and works on film projects with his daughter, Hildegard.