The full leather sole is either glued onto the bottom, common on cheaper styles, or sewn, as on more costly bespoke styles still made traditionally, using a shallow slit to lift a flap of leather around the edge to recess and hide the stitching.
The shoes originally had silver cut-steel buckles, but these were removed by the influence of Beau Brummell,[1] and a square grosgrain bow was added.
Even though it now survives in much the same form as it was at the start of the 19th century[3] (though it is occasionally now worn with plain, not patent or calf) pumps have been largely displaced by Oxfords, perhaps because of an effeminate image and the declining use of white tie.
The use of the word "pumps" has been in use in the English-speaking world since at least 1719, when it is mentioned in Daniel Defoe's novel Robinson Crusoe.
Recent studies highlight the relationship between foot health issues and the choice of footwear.
One such study found that the footwear choices of young women in 2012 were activity-specific and participants chose the style and design of shoes related to the image they wanted to portray.