[5] Double-overturned lapel kaftan-like robe were called kuapao and were referred as hufu in the Tang dynasty; kuapao was characterized with tight sleeves and double overturned lapels with short overlap which closes at the front in proximity to the centre of the body (or with a front opening).
[9] The term kuapao was sometimes used to refer to double over-turned fanlingpao with tight sleeves, which overlaps at the front and closes on the right side of the body near the armpit in the Tang dynasty.
[10][4][11][note 3] Lapels robes originated from Western Asia and were popular in Central Asian in the Sogdian region, in Qiuci, and Gaochang.
[2] The earliest depictions of Xianbei and Han Chinese people wearing lapel robes in China also date back to the Northern Wei dynasty.
The Sogdians and their descendants (mostly from the merchant class) who lived in China during this period also wore a form of knee-length, yuanlingpao-like kaftan that retained their own ethnic characteristics but also showed some influences from East Asia (i.e., Chinese and early Turks).
[11] By the Northern Qi dynasty, lapel robes had become popular in the Han Chinese regions and were worn by both men and women.
[4] While adopting certain elements from foreign dress (e.g. Sogdian and Turk lapel robes), the Chinese however maintain their traditional way of closing their fanglingpao on the right side.
[14][8]: 98 Based on the reconstruction from the Dunhuang frescoes, the Huihuzhuang had an overlapping front which could be closed with ties on the right or left side.
[8]: 98 The rise of Uyghur-style robe occurred after the rebellion of An Lushan, when Uyghur culture grew along with their military power.