Garment collars in hanfu
Some forms of collars were indigenous to China while others had been adopted from the Hufu of other non-Han Chinese ethnic minorities and/or from the clothing worn by foreigners.
[2] Styles of garments which overlap at the front and close to the right side are known as youren (Chinese: 右衽; lit.
[2] The youren closure was eventually adopted by other ethnic minorities and was also spread to neighbouring countries, such as Vietnam, Korea and Japan.
'left lapel'), which generally refers the way garment overlaps on the front, like the youren closure, but instead closes on the left side.
This can also be found in the chapter Sang da ji (喪大記) of the Liji (禮記): "At both the dressings the sacrificial robes were not placed below the others.
For example, in some areas (such as Northern Hebei) in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could be found wearing left-lapel clothing.
[8] It was also common for the Han Chinese women to adopt left lapel under the reign of foreign nationalities, such as in the Yuan dynasty.
Some ethnic minorities generally had their clothing closing in the zuoren-style[2] according to what was recorded in ancient Chinese texts, such as the Qiang.
[10]: 103 When used by the ancient Chinese literati, the concept of pifa zuoren became a phrase, which held the symbolic of foreign people who were living a barbarous and civilized lifestyle; this concept also became a way to emphasize the customs differences between the Han people and other ethnic minorities and draw the line to distinguish who was were considered as civilized and barbarians.
[2] Of note, some non-Chinese ethnicity who adopted Hanfu-style sometimes maintain their left lapels, such as the Khitans in the Liao dynasty.
[18] Garments and attire which used the jiaoling youren collar include: shenyi, jiaolingpao, mianfu, pienfu, diyi, dahu, and tieli.
[1] Duijin could be used in garments and attire, such as beizi, banbi, and beixin.Round collars are called yuanling (圆领)[1] or panling (盘领).
[29] High standing collars in the Ming dynasty are referred as shuling (竖领) or liling (立领).
[30]: 93 There were two main forms of high standing collars garments based on their types of lapels and closure.
