The project initially began as an art collective, evolving into a fashion line made up of entirely recycled pieces of clothing, which Subkoff and others hand-sewed.

The group enacted "guerrilla"-style fashion shows, with models including Scarlett Johansson and Chloë Sevigny.

[7] In reflecting on the line's ethos, Subkoff said: We were talking about waste, throwing things away, and taking something that's old and making it new again, putting the human hand back into a world that wreaks of manufacturing.

"[2] According to Subkoff, she had to work four other jobs, including a shoe collaboration with Easy Spirit and consulting for Sara Lee Apparel in order to keep the company financially afloat.

[2] Between 2006 and 2007, the label was sold to Josh Sparks, former CEO of the Australian brand Sass & Bide, for a reported $2 million, but went under within a year.

[10] In 2011, after recovering from extensive brain surgery after being diagnosed with an acoustic neuroma,[11] Subkoff announced that she would be reviving the label independently, bringing it back to its "most basic incarnation: easy-to-wear staples with an edge.