Jeanne Toussaint

She is remembered in particular for her panther designs which first appeared as a decoration for a Cartier watch in 1914 and became the theme of several creations for the Duchess of Windsor, including an onyx bracelet in 1952.

By the 1920s, she had successfully designed stylish handbags for wealthy high-society figures including Marjorie Merriweather Post and Daisy Fellowes.

The first woman in the jewellery business with such an important mandate, she continued to hold the post during the Second World War while Cartier moved to the United States where he died in 1942.

[1] In the 1940s, Toussaint moved from her earlier involvement with Art Deco into three-dimensional sculptural work, often focusing on panthers set with diamonds, emeralds and onyx.

[5] She also created works based on dragonflies, ladybirds, birds of paradise, lions and tigers and an impressive brooch of a flamingo, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife in 1940.