[4] The end result is stunted, wilted, and yellowing plants (characteristic of nutrient deficiency) and a decreased yield.

[3] Severity of the symptoms depends on nematode population density and host plant species and cultivar.

When the eggs hatch—usually when the soil temperature is 18 °C—the nematode is in its second juvenile stage, and will start to find, enter, and infect plant roots.

[6] The males are able to move freely and leave the root after they become adults, while the females stay sedentary and feed on cells next to the vascular system[4].

[8] However, using a combination of control practices, known as integrated pest management plant (IPM), has been proven to be effective.

[6] Depending on the control method being utilized, different parts of the root-knot nematode disease cycle is disturbed.

[3] Another control that can be done before the planting season is the use of cover crops such as sudangrass and marigolds which produce chemicals toxic to nematodes.

[6] Rotation of nonhost crops (grasses, corn, barley, wheat, oat, rye, asparagus, onions) can also reduce nematode populations.

Adding manure, compost, and organic matter improves soil quality to again increase microbial competition as well as allow the plants to grow stronger and be able to withstand nematode infestation.

This includes both fumigants (methyl bromide, metham sodium, chloropiocrin), and liquids and granules (fenamiphos, oxamyl, furadan).

[3] There are several OMRI (Organic Materials Reviews Institute) products in the market, but none show any significant effectiveness against Northern root-knot nematodes.