Mount Everest in 2017

The Mount Everest climbing season of 2017 began in spring with the first climbers reaching the top on May 11, from the north side.

[6] Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck died in a fall during a warm-up climb on Nuptse, which he was conducting in preparation for his Everest-Lhotse summit bid.

Txikon reached Camp 4 at approximately 7,950 meters on 31 January 2018 before being turned back by bad weather conditions.

[23] The south side was expected to become a "global village" for about two months as hundreds of people from around the world undertake expeditions to the mountain.

In late May, the window before the monsoon season hits was predicted to open and the bulk of the expeditions began their summit bid.

[27][28] All permits purchased for the spring season of 2015 were extended for two years, allowing those who had been unable to climb due to the earthquake and subsequent avalanches to return.

[28] The first joint military exercise between the People's Republic of China and Nepal, called Sagarmatha Friendship-2017, took place April 16–25.

[31] British DJ Paul Oakenfold hosted "the highest party on Earth" in April at the Everest base camp, which was attended by over 100 people.

[35] The Nepal government and Everest expeditions worked together to distribute trash bags to remove debris from this season and from previous years, when people had to evacuate.

[35] A French-backed expedition called Everest Green went on an independent waste-retrieval mission, collecting about five tonnes of garbage from the Nepal base camp up to the South Col area.

[45] On May 27, 2017, Kami Rita Sherpa, climbing with the Alpine Ascents Everest Expedition, reached the summit for the 21st time.

[46][47] Kilian Jornet completed an unassisted speed climb from base camp to the summit in 26 hours without bottled oxygen or fixed ropes, setting a new record.

[50] A standard climb using a typical route takes approximately four days from North base camp to the summit.

[10] Jornet's speed climb was one of fastest since Hans Kammerlander completed the normal Tibet-side route in 16 hours 45 minutes in 1996, setting the official Guinness World Record.

[60] In the 21st century, an average of 7 people have died each year trying to summit Everest or as part of base camp support.

[64] On April 30, Ueli Steck, described as the greatest climber of his time,[66] was warming up for an Everest-Lhotse summit attempt with a solo climb on Nuptse[67][68] when he fell over 3000 feet.

[82] Kumar's body had fallen into a crevasse and the effort to recover it was described as "the most complex recovery mission to ever be attempted on Everest".

[83] There was a strong push to recover the body before the window of good weather closed, as the monsoon season to the south grew in force.

[83] The Xtreme Everest project continued its multi-year mission to study how the body adapts to high altitude and the physiological changes that occur.