Mughal clothing
Types of headwear included: "Chau-goshia", a cap in four segments, the dome shaped "qubbedar", "kashiti", the embroidered "dupalli" and "nukka dar", and the velvet "mandil".
[2] Shoe styles included jhuti", "kafsh", "charhvan", "salim shahi" and "khurd nau" and were curved up at the front.
During the reign of Akbar, the typical Mughal turban was popularized which was wrapped directly on the head as it lacked a Karakul hat and involved a tight bundle in the front and an ascending slope backwards so that it bulged near the back.
[5] Mughal woman's headwear consisted of silk Karakul or boqta hats of various styles which were ornamented with jewels, feathered pin and veils.
During Emperor Akbar's reign, the common costumes donned by him were of a knee-length 'Jama', it's variant the 'Peshwaz' or the 'angrakha' fastened to the right side with short ties or at the center.
[6] The Yaktahi Jama originated in Persia and Central Asia, where it was worn both short and long, over a pai-jama to form an outfit known as the "Bast Agag".
The definition of the Mughal Jama is a side-fastening frock coat with a tight-fitting bodice, nipped-in waist, and flared skirt, reaching the knees.
In many miniature figures and paintings, Akbar is seen wearing the Jama girded at the waist with a waistband, and he accompanies it with a small, short turban without a cap and a churidar paijama.
Akbar restyled the garment and developed it into a formal gown by removing slits, rounding the hemline, and increasing the fullness of the skirt.
For instance, he donned the 'takauchiya' – a typical Indian costume that is stitched out of silk, gold, or woolen material, making it versatile for both summer and winter climates.
[6] Only the emperor himself, his intimate relations, and select members of his entourage (beasts as well as men) were permitted to wear a royal turban ornament.
During Shah Jahan's reign, an entirely mineralogical version of the kalgi appeared, an ornate, heavily jeweled brooch, in which a stylized plume‟ as well as the stem was composed of gems set in gold and backed by polychrome enamel.
For instance, followers of Islam wore shoes and boots habitually to protect their feet from the heat and hazards of the Indian landscape.
A distinctive type of footwear emerged in medieval India, the Mojari – these slippers were ornate, often woven with gold-silver zari (thread), and encrusted with jewels to display the wealth and power of its wearer.
Desi (traditional) Jutti of Punjab manufactured with flat soles has no distinction of right or left foot with curled upturn toe.
Some of the popular head ornaments worn by men were Jigha and Sarpatti, Sarpech, Kalgi, Mukut, Turra and Kalangi.
Neck ornaments formed an important part of jewelry of women also and included Guluband, Hans, Har and Hasuli.
The variety of nose ornaments worn by women during the Mughal times constituted phul, besar, laung, balu, nath and Phuli.
[14] Owing to the relative isolation of the ladies in court, due to the Purdah, fashion in the early days of the empire adhered to traditional dress of Khurasan and Persia.
In time, the social and diplomatic relationships between the Mughal Dynasty and the rest of India (Rajputana in particular), led to more exchange in accoutrements.
[15] Noble women in the court of Babur or Humayun would have begun their outfits with wide loose pants, painted or stripped.
Other articles of clothing included the Yalek: a tightly fitting nearly floor-length vest, buttoned in the front, with the chest accentuated, in both short- and long-sleeve varieties.
Their lower half were covered either in tight pants (tunban or izar), or in la hengu, which itself was styled like a lungi attached at the ends and a band sewn into the top.
[12] Fabrics of the time included wild goat's hair cloth (tus) and pashmina, and light and warm wool.
