Nazir Sabir

On 17 July 1976 he made the first ascent of 6660m virgin Paiyu followed by Colonel Manzoor Hussain and Major Bashir with the first Pakistani expedition organised by the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

Nick Estcourt, a member of this team, was swept to his death by a slab avalanche on the way to Camp 2 while Doug Scott barely survived.

[6] In 1982, Sabir along with Sher Khan and the famous Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner climbed Gasherbrum II 8035m and Broad Peak 8047m.

He then challenged the S/S West Face also known as Schell Route of Nanga Parbat on the Rupal Flank in 1983 with Tohokeiryo Kai Club friends.

In 1985 Sabir lured his old time friend and one of the most accomplished Himalayan climbers Doug Scott and his team to go on the same route of Nanga Parbat.

In July 1980, Sabir lost his elder brother Inayat Shah, who served in the Pakistan Army Special Services Group (SSG).

Nazir went back to Everest from Nepal side and on 17 May 2000, climbing in the company of his Nepalese Sherpa colleagues and a Canadian on a full moon night to avoid high winds he stepped on the highest summit at 0730 hours becoming the first from Pakistan to get to the roof of the world.

While waiting for Ben Webster of Canada and two other Sherpas he went on enjoying the most splendid moments of his life with his two Sherpa colleagues taking video shots of Ben and others climbing the last part of the summit ridge and the magical surroundings against the backdrop of the much blessed early morning sun approaching from behind 8462m Makalu, 5th highest mountain in the world.

He spoke to the base camp and sent the message of humbleness and happiness back home and to his closest friends who were watching his progress and counting steps up the last part of the mountain as he climbed through the clear night winds.

He received hundreds of messages from across the country and the globe including that of Benazir Bhutto who was second to send in her congratulations from London where she lived at the time.

Sabir is currently working as an environmentalist on the conservation of wildlife in his native Hunza Valley and across Northern Pakistan including the Baltoro Glacier region.

He has been actively involved in promoting Pakistan as a unique tourism destination "The Best Kept Secret" in South Asia and has travelled extensively around the world lecturing on the country's cultural, historical and adventure potential.

On the invitation of UIAA/IUCN he participated in the Indo-Pakistani and UK Peace Climb in the Swiss Alps in 2002, organised to focus attention on environmental degradation in the Siachen Glacier area due to the ongoing conflict between India and Pakistan.

He was a delegate at an International workshop on Food Security and Cross Border Tourism jointly organised by GTZ and AKF in Dushanbe in 2004.

For over two decades he has been representing Pakistan and delivered lectures on the tourism potential of Pakistan at international forums and Alpine Clubs in Japan, the United States, Australia, the United Kingdom, Germany, Austria, Canada, Nepal, South Korea, Hong Kong, Tajikistan, Poland, Slovakia, Malaysia, France and Italy.