Pasang Kikuli (1911–1939) was a Nepalese Sherpa mountain climber and explorer who acted as a sirdar for many Himalayan expeditions.
He had stayed with his sahib, Uli Wieland [de] until he died and then he came down with other Sherpas to Camp IV by then suffering from dreadful frostbite.
[1] Because of his frostbite he was not able to go very high but Art Emmons, one of the American climbers, said he was "by far the best porter, a fine personal servant, energetic, and hardworking."
After Tilman and Noel Odell had reached the summit (at the time at 25,643 feet (7,816 m) it was the highest summit ever to have been climbed), he was the only Sherpa to accompany Tilman and Charlie Houston over Longstaff's Col out of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the first crossing of the col.[1][2] On the 1938 American Karakoram expedition Pasang Kikuli acted as sirdar (chief Sherpa).
By climbing 7,000 feet (2,100 m) in one day they made the sort of alpine-style Himalayan ascent only achieved decades later by western climbers.