[5] The company found new recognition for its fashion design when it chose Belgian-born Olivier Theyskens as its creative director in 2002.
[2] However, Theyskens' focus on "demicouture" (special pieces too costly to mass-produce but which may not meet strict couture rules regarding hand-stitching and numbers of fitting) was questioned by fashion insiders as a viable business strategy.
[2] One "longtime designer," commenting anonymously in The New York Times, said of the closure, "That sort of perfect, made-to-measure business can't exist today, which is really too bad.
[12] On November 3, 2008, Marco Zanini was named new artistic director for the fashion house,[13] in partnership with the Italian company GIBO.
In September 2013, it was confirmed that Zanini would be leaving Rochas after five years with the brand to take on the role of Creative Director at the House of Schiaparelli.
Vigilante has previously worked for brands such as Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci, and was hired by Rochas in May 2023 as a design employee.