This leather was a major export good from Russia in the 17th and 18th centuries because of its high quality, its usefulness for a range of purposes, and the difficulty of replicating its manufacture elsewhere.
It followed the usual steps of long soaking and cleaning in water, liming to remove hair, and then the tanning itself.
Distillation was performed by a process akin to charcoal burning, involving the entire village in a group effort.
An airtight cover of earth, animal dung and damp fireproof material was placed over the pit, in the manner of a charcoal clamp.
[1] A smaller-scale process was also carried out by some individuals using a kettle-like clay pot a couple of feet high.
[1] It was considered, even into the nineteenth century, that although the manufacture of 'Russia leather' could be successfully undertaken in the rest of Europe, production of the necessary birch oil would still require import from Russia or Poland.
[1] It was likely that other tree species could be found that would produce an oil with similar preservative properties, but the distinctive aroma of genuine Russia leather would require the traditional birch.
This was done by rolling it with a grooved brass roller, usually twice in slightly different directions to give a cross-hatched effect.
This was considered a coarser, more utilitarian product and was usually applied to the horsehide Russia leather also produced for weatherproof exterior equipment such as horse harnesses.
[1] The second, cheaper, black dye was produced by scrap iron dissolving into an acidic liquor, usually stale kvass (quas at that time), the ubiquitous Russian ryebread beer.
In 1807, von Meidinger, who worked for an early Russia leather factory in Vienna, learned details of the process from a Russian tanner and described it.
[1] In 1874, Marshall Jewell, U.S. Minister to Russia, who was also a currier by trade, discovered the recipe and published it openly in the USA, rather than profiting personally by it.
Plain leather upholstery, even though an expensive item, was seen as less ostentatious and so more acceptable than either fabric or carving.
Russia leather chairs have been remarkably hard-wearing and examples have lasted in use into the 19th century, without recovering.
Only high-ranking officers or the nomenklatura would have access to boots made from the quality of true russia leather.
The distinctive birch oil aroma, and its connotations of high quality, led to its use as a deliberate fragrance.