Each soldier carried a small quantity of pebbles which at camp were brought together to create the "sangak oven" that would bake the bread for the entire army.
[3] The Soviets mandated centralized, industrial mass-production of bread, a modernization which was not amenable to traditional, hand-formed sangak.
The baker uses this handle to tip the formed dough onto a large tray that often rotates within the oven, which is usually gas-fired.
This tray is covered with smooth river stones, which give sangak its characteristic corrugated texture and combination of thick, chewy regions separated by thin and crispy borders.
This action requires a great deal of experience and some bakeries advertise the skill of their bakers by claiming to have the longest sangak in their city or region.