Savile Row

Known principally for its traditional bespoke tailoring for men, the street has had a varied history that has included accommodating the headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society at 1 Savile Row, where significant British explorations to Africa and the South Pole were planned; and more recently, the Apple office of the Beatles at 3 Savile Row, where the band's final live performance was held on the roof of the building.

Henry Flitcroft, under the supervision of Daniel Garrett, appears to have been the main architect – though 1 and 22–23 Savile Row were designed by William Kent.

Initially, the street was occupied mainly by military officers and their wives; later William Pitt the Younger and Irish-born playwright and MP Richard Brinsley Sheridan were residents.

In 1846, Henry Poole, later credited as the creator of the dinner jacket, opened an entrance to Savile Row from his tailoring premises in Old Burlington Street.

The term "bespoke" as applied to fine tailoring is understood to have originated in Savile Row, and came to mean a suit cut and made by hand.

In 2016 Westminster City Council commenced attempts to protect the street's tailoring heritage under the Savile Row SPA (Special Policy Area).

[7] Maddox's land, consisting mainly of fruit and other trees covering what would become Savile Row and the streets around, some of which is still owned by his descendants as the Pollen Estate.

[12] Jules Verne had Phileas Fogg, his lead character in Around the World in Eighty Days, live at 7 Savile Row – a "fashionable address" and "the former home of Sheridan".

[9] In 1846, Henry Poole, credited as creator of the dinner jacket or tuxedo,[16] opened an entrance at 37 Savile Row from his late father's tailoring premises at 4 Old Burlington Street.

1 from 1870 to 1912, from where significant British exploration was planned, including into Asia, Africa, and the South Pole; and, according to the society, the address "became associated with adventure and travel".

[23] Fortress House, an eight-storey block of offices faced with Portland stone, was constructed at 23 Savile Row in 1949-50 and occupied by a series of government ministries, ending with a long period of occupation by English Heritage until 2006.

With increasing rents and criticisms from Giorgio Armani of falling behind the times,[30] the number of tailors in Savile Row had declined to 19 in 2006, from approximately 40 in the 1950s.

[35] The Association, along with the owners, the Pollen Estate, is working in partnership with Westminster Council to protect the street's tailoring heritage under the Savile Row SPA (Special Policy Area).

None of those original tailors survive today, though Henry Poole & Co, who through Edward VII's patronage, helped make the street fashionable,[65] still have a presence in Savile Row.

[69][70] The "London cut" is a high small armhole with a generous upper sleeve that permits the jacket to remain close to the neck while freeing the arm to move with comfort.

[81] However, Terry Haste, cutter at Tommy Nutter, continues with John Kent (holder of the Royal Warrant for the Duke of Edinburgh) nearby at 7 Sackville Street.

[82] Modernisation had slowed by the early 1990s; Savile Row tailors were "struggling to find relevance with an audience that had grown increasingly disassociated".

[83] Three tailors, Ozwald Boateng, Timothy Everest (an apprentice of Nutter's), and Richard James, then became known for revitalising the bespoke style for the modern market - having each broken away independently from the Savile Row mould.

[84] Public relations professional Alison Hargreaves coined the term "New Bespoke Movement" to describe collectively the work of this "new generation" of tailors.

[85] The newcomers altered their shop fronts and used marketing and publicity to their advantage;[86] challenging the traditional Savile Row styling, they brought twists and "a fine sense of colour to bespoke suits.

Savile Row (then called Saville Street) as shown on Richard Horwood's 1819 map of London
Bomb damage in Savile Row, 1944
3 Savile Row, the Beatles' former Apple offices, 2007
Company logo of Bernard Weatherill Ltd on 5 Savile Row
A tailor pressing a pair of trousers in the workroom of Henry Poole & Co in 1944
Gieves & Hawkes at 1 Savile Row