Pattern (sewing)

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled.

Commercial clothing manufacturers make their own patterns in-house as part of their design and production process, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker.

The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements, using rulers, curves, and straight-edges.

Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK) or muslins (US) or Nessel[1] in German, the final sloper can be used to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on.

The draping method involves creating a mock-up pattern made of a strong fabric (such as calico) in a linen weave.

[2] Designers drafting a sculpted evening gown or dress which uses a lot of fabric--typically cut on the bias--will use the draping technique, as it is very difficult to achieve this with a flat pattern.

Patternmakers grade the first cuts to the desired size with the aid of CAD software (computer-aided design).

A sewer may choose a standard size (usually from the wearer's bust measurement) that has been pre-graded on a purchased pattern.

It is easy to work with when making quick adjustments, by pinning the fabric around the wearer or a dress form.

[6] Patterns are cut of oak tag (manila folder) paper, punched with a hole and stored by hanging with a special hook.

Once the pattern meets the designer's approval, a small production run of selling samples is made and the style is presented to buyers in wholesale markets.

If the style has demonstrated sales potential, the pattern is graded for sizes, usually by computer with an apparel industry specific CAD program.

Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the accuracy of each size and the direct comparison in laying seam lines is done.

Many pattern companies distribute sewing patterns as electronic files as an alternative to, or in place of, pre-printed packets, which the home sewer can print at home or take to a local copyshop, as they include large format printing versions.

Modern patterns are available in a wide range of prices, sizes, styles, and sewing skill levels, to meet the needs of consumers.

In one method, tracing paper with transferable ink on one side is placed between the pattern and the fabric.

A tracing wheel is moved over the pattern outlines, transferring the markings onto the fabric with ink that is removable by erasing or washing.