Tom George Longstaff (15 January 1875 – 26 June 1964)[1] was an English medical doctor, explorer and mountaineer, most famous for being the first person to climb a summit of over 7,000 metres in elevation, Trisul, in the India/Pakistan Himalayas in 1907.
[2] He also made important explorations and climbs in Tibet, Nepal, the Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Greenland, and Baffin Island.
[7] Longstaff was commissioned into the 1/7th Battalion of the Hampshire Regiment in 1914 and served on the General Staff at Army Headquarters, Simla, 1915–1916.
Longstaff climbed in the Alps, the Caucasus,[9] Rocky Mountains, Greenland, Spitsbergen, Himalayas and the Selkirks[10] (with Wheeler).
He led the Oxford University Expedition to Greenland in 1928[16] and the same year was awarded the Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society for his work in the Himalaya, especially his discovery of the Siachen Glacier.