Tom Longstaff

Tom George Longstaff (15 January 1875 – 26 June 1964)[1] was an English medical doctor, explorer and mountaineer, most famous for being the first person to climb a summit of over 7,000 metres in elevation, Trisul, in the India/Pakistan Himalayas in 1907.

[2] He also made important explorations and climbs in Tibet, Nepal, the Karakoram, Spitsbergen, Greenland, and Baffin Island.

[7] Longstaff was commissioned into the 1/7th Battalion of the Hampshire Regiment in 1914 and served on the General Staff at Army Headquarters, Simla, 1915–1916.

Longstaff climbed in the Alps, the Caucasus,[9] Rocky Mountains, Greenland, Spitsbergen, Himalayas and the Selkirks[10] (with Wheeler).

He led the Oxford University Expedition to Greenland in 1928[16] and the same year was awarded the Founder's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society for his work in the Himalaya, especially his discovery of the Siachen Glacier.

Photograph from "The assault on Mount Everest, 1922, C. G. Bruce , [ 8 ] facing page 46 "The Expedition at base Camp." Left to right, back row: Henry Morshead , Geoffrey Bruce , John Noel , Arthur Wakefield, Howard Somervell , John Morris , Teddy Norton . Front row: George Mallory , George Finch , Tom Longstaff , Charles Bruce , Bill Strutt , Colin Crawford .