Tony Yaniro

His training regimes have been used to develop climbing fitness and endurance in all types of climbers, and have been used by some of the world's leading alpinists and high-altitude mountaineers.

[3][4] He popularized the statement: “If you can't do the moves, then there is nothing to endure.”[5][6] Tony Yaniro grew up in California and began climbing at age 11 when he discovered the sport at summer camp.

[7][8] In 1974, he made a free ascent up to the first pitch of Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)[9] and soon would gain notoriety for outclimbing veteran climbers at Suicide Rock.

[14] He then made a replica of the crack at home and practiced, building the muscle groups needed to be able to achieve a successful climb.

[19] His preparation training contributed to the development of his innovative climbing style, allowing him to hone moves that were used by few others at the time, such as the "Yaniro"/figure-four.

[20][21] The "Yaniro", is a climbing move that entails placing one leg above one's opposite elbow to reach a distant handhold.

[26][27] Another technique of Yaniro's involved wedging one's head and closed fist together in a crack, to gain leverage to pull upwards.

[33] He became known for his innovative hand holds and later moved into designing climbing facilities, opening a gym in Prescott, Arizona.

[19][2][36] His early hand hold designs, such as the "Yaniro System" have been in production for over thirty years and continues to be used to train sport climbers.