His training regimes have been used to develop climbing fitness and endurance in all types of climbers, and have been used by some of the world's leading alpinists and high-altitude mountaineers.
[3][4] He popularized the statement: “If you can't do the moves, then there is nothing to endure.”[5][6] Tony Yaniro grew up in California and began climbing at age 11 when he discovered the sport at summer camp.
[7][8] In 1974, he made a free ascent up to the first pitch of Anti-Jello Crack (5.10a)[9] and soon would gain notoriety for outclimbing veteran climbers at Suicide Rock.
[14] He then made a replica of the crack at home and practiced, building the muscle groups needed to be able to achieve a successful climb.
[19] His preparation training contributed to the development of his innovative climbing style, allowing him to hone moves that were used by few others at the time, such as the "Yaniro"/figure-four.
[20][21] The "Yaniro", is a climbing move that entails placing one leg above one's opposite elbow to reach a distant handhold.
[26][27] Another technique of Yaniro's involved wedging one's head and closed fist together in a crack, to gain leverage to pull upwards.
[33] He became known for his innovative hand holds and later moved into designing climbing facilities, opening a gym in Prescott, Arizona.
[19][2][36] His early hand hold designs, such as the "Yaniro System" have been in production for over thirty years and continues to be used to train sport climbers.