In one, a beggar stole a chicken from a farm but having no pot or utensils, he wrapped the bird in lotus leaves and packed clay or mud around it, set it in a hole where he had lit a fire, and buried it.

When he dug up the chicken and cracked open the clay, he found the meat was tender and aromatic.

[1][2] In other versions, the beggar stole the chicken from the emperor and used the mud-hole method to avoid smoke that might attract the imperial guards.

[1] Finally, in another legend, during the 17th century toward the end of the Ming dynasty in Changshu, saying that politician and Koxinga's mentor Qian Qianyi met the beggar who made the impromptu dish and had his chefs improved the recipe.

[14] Preparing the dish with dough is safer; ceramic cooking pots can also be used to retain moisture, but these are expensive to purchase.